Thailand Retreats

Meditation lessons for foreign guests

Any of us have at one time or another found the toll of living in the modern world hard to bear. Stress, depression and disillusionment are some of the diseases of modern times that leave us yearning for a solution, a cure, so to speak. More and more people are turning to meditation as they fail to find the answer through worldly paths. Meditation is found in some form or other in all major religious traditions. Even those who are not religious use it to focus the mind, to home it, so that it works better. In Buddhism, meditation is integral to the eight-fold path to enlightenment. One trains one's mind so that it can see the four-point Supreme Truth that forms the core of Buddha's teachings: suffering, what causes it, the end of suffering, and the path to that end. Even if you are not interested in Buddhism, meditation is a valuable training that can be applied to daily life, for it helps with concentration and when done correctly can lead to a state of peace and calmness that's beyond worldly joys.

There are two main branches in Buddhist meditation: samatha (calmness, concentration) and vipassana (insight), Which stresses mindfulness. This doesn't mean that the two are entirely separate, since you cannot be mindful unless you have at least some level of concentration.

The techniques of samatha meditation are many, some older than Buddhism, others developed after the time of the Buddha. Among the most commonly practiced here is anapanasati, or "mindfulness with breathing." This technique was advocated by the Venerable Buddhadasa Bhikku(1903-1993),founder of Suan Mokkh Forest Monastery in Surat Thani. Meditators at Suan Mokkh (Garden of Liberation), follow the 16 steps of anapanasati as laid down in Pali texts.

Mantra meditation, in which you repeat a few words over and over, is also widely practiced. Followers of this technique may chant "Buddh" as they inhale, and "dho" as they exhale. The words may vary, but the purpose of chanting is really to get the mind focused. Yet another widely taught technique is kasinas, where meditators concentrate on an object outside themselves, such as the flame of a candle, or a crystal ball.

Sati, or mindfulness, is key to vipassana meditation. You Train yourself to be aware of the body's action, the rise and fall of your chest as you inhale and exhale, the movement of your feet and legs as you walk, as well as your feelings, your thought, and finally, the state of mind you are in. Walking, sitting and lying meditation are but a few of vipassana techniques. When the mind is untrained, concentration can be shattered by the slightest stimuli noise, smell, heat, hunger, pain, etc. The key is to become aware of what happens, but not dwell on it. Still, a novice can only ward off so much distraction, and that's one reason why vipassana retreats are usually held in peaceful and isolated settings.

Meditation teachings are widely available in Thailand. You can attend a class at one of the teaching monasteries for an afternoon or evening. Or you may join a vipassana retreat, which usually takes a weekend of longer. A number of retreat centers, most of them located in the provinces, run intensive courses of up to four weeks on an ongoing basis. All vipassana retreats require you to follow the Five Buddhist Precepts. These include refraining from harming all living beings, from taking what is not given, from improper sexual behavior, from lying and incorrect speech, and from taking liquors and drugs that will cloud the mind. Some retreats may require that you take the Eight Precepts, which in addition to the first five include refraining from dinner, from all forms of entertainment and bodily decoration, and from sleeping on high mattresses.

Respect for one's teacher is inherent in Thai culture. At the start of a vipassana session, you must attend an opening ceremony, where you pay respect to the meditation masters and present them with traditional Buddhist offerings of incense sticks, candles and flowers-usually three lotuses or a hand garland. There is also a closing ceremony, where you thank your teachers and bid them a formal farewell. Even if you cannot stay for the duration of the course, be sure to perform this ritual before you leave, since not doing so is considered very rude.

Once you get enrolled in a course, be sure to follow only the technique taught there. Mixing techniques will only confuse you. Usually, you are given instructions daily, and required to report your progress-or lack of it-to your meditation master on the following day. After the interview you will be given advice and new instructions, or old ones to repeat.

All-white, modest clothing is required at vipassana retreats. Check ahead if there is a shop on the compound, or if you have to bring your own. At most monasteries, simple accommodation and food are provided, usually free of charge. Talking, reading and writing are discouraged, as they will distract you from your meditation. And meditators are not allowed to leave the retreat compound unless absolutely necessary. So be sure to bring enough change of clothes, toiletries and personal items for the duration of the course.

For first-time meditators, it might help to attend a day session or two before you join a long retreat. Many temples around the country teach samatha and vipassana meditation.

Where to Learn Buddhist Meditation

International Buddhist Meditation Center

Dhamma Vicaya Hall, Wat Mahadhatu, Tha Prachan, Bangkok Tel. 02-6236326, 02-6236328 (Afternoons only, 1 - 7.30 p.m.)IBMC is the vipassana teaching center of Mahachulalongkorn Buddhist University, one of the highest seats of Buddhist learning in the country. Mindfulness meditation classes in English are held daily, from 1-6 p.m. except on Buddhist holidays and Sundays. Bring flowers, nine sticks of incense and a candle for the opening ceremony. The Center also organizes vipassana retreats at Buddha Monthon in Nakhon Pathom, usually on major Buddhist holidays and long weekends. Dhamma talks to groups can be arranged by request.

Section Five, Wat Mahadhatu Tha Prachan Maharaj Road, Bangkok Tel.02-2226011Thais and foreigners have long come to Section Five of Wat Mahadhatu to learn mindfulness meditation. Classes are held from 7-10 a.m., 1-4 p.m. and 6-9 p.m. These are mixed; at any given session there will be beginners and advanced meditators, monks and laymen, locals and tourists. English-speaking instruction is available on Mondays. You can come for a retreat of three days or longer. Meals are provided on the compounds free of charge. Bring enough sets of clothes, toiletries and personal items, and an offering of flowers, a candle and nine sticks of incense for the opening ceremony. Donations are accepted but not solicited.

Northern Insight Meditation Center At Wat Rampoeng (Tapotharam) Tumbon Suthep, Amphoe Muang, Chiand Mai Tel/Fax: 053-278620The Northern Insight Meditation Center has been teaching mindfulness meditation to thousands of tourists and locals for more than 20 years. It has English-speaking monks, nuns and volunteer facilitators on staff. The center offers a 26-day basic course on an ongoing basis. After you have completed this course you can join the 10-day Insight Meditation Retreat. Tourists are required to present two passport photos, two copies each of a valid passport and visa with entry stamp. Modest white clothing is required; this can be bought at the Temple's store. Dormitory-style accommodation and meals are provided free of charge. Donations are accepted but not solicited.

Wat phra Dhatu Sri Chomthong Tumbon Baan Luang, Amphoe Chomthong, Chiang Mai. Tel. 053-826869This temple is headed by the monk who founded the Northern Insight Meditation Center at Wat Rampoeng. Meditation retreats are held on an ongoing basis. Meditators must present identification card or valid passport, and inform the temple of their intended length of stay. Then they can choose whether to follow the Five or Eight Precepts. The temple provides meals and simple, dormitory-style lodgings, most with their own bathroom. Proper clothing is available at a shop next door to the monastery. Bookings are advised, since the retreats draw large crowds during major Buddhist holidays and Chinese vegetarian festive.

Suan Mokkh Forest Monastery Formal instruction is given only during monthly 10-day retreats; at other times interviews, books, and tapes are available. Retreats feature Dhamma talks, interviews, group sittings, walking meditation, and morning hatha yoga.The 10-day retreats have been very popular. They provide a unique opportunity to experience the anapanasati technique in a retreat setting. (Most other meditation centres in the Theravadan tradition teach the vipassana system based on Mahasi Sayadaw's techniques.) Retreats begin on the first of every month; you must register in person a day or 2 in advance. Sometimes the 110-person capacity of the retreat cannot accommodate everyone who comes, hence the importance of coming beforehand. Upon acceptance, one must follow instructions given and be committed to staying the entire 10-day course. Late arrivals aren't possible. Retreats take place at the International Dhamma Hermitage 1.5 km east across the highway from Suan Mokkh. Foreign visitors cannot be received easily at Suan Mokkh when retreats are under way, so plan arrival after the 11th of each month. Participation in community activities is expected. One is encouraged to practice in the Suan Mokkh style. Experienced meditators who have done a retreat here before may request permission for long-term stays.

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